Thanks All
Turns out I had 2 problems going on - I had toggled hide basemap and couldn't find it in the menus again. Thanks to seldom for the menu sequence.
Also, I was snow shoeing in northern Utah in an area that is covered by both the Utah topos and Wyoming topos I had downloaded. Apparently the WY. topo for this section does not include roads and for reasons I still don't understand, the WY map is the only one that shows when both maps are selected.
Turns out I had 2 problems going on - I had toggled hide basemap and couldn't find it in the menus again. Thanks to seldom for the menu sequence.
Also, I was snow shoeing in northern Utah in an area that is covered by both the Utah topos and Wyoming topos I had downloaded. Apparently the WY. topo for this section does not include roads and for reasons I still don't understand, the WY map is the only one that shows when both maps are selected.