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OK, the solution was really simple ... I had to hit "reset defaults" on map options. I still don't see what (if anything) got reset, but now I can see the map the way it was supposed to.

Tried switching to day palette, no effect. Tried physically deleting the demo BirdsEye map, no effect. Checked a few different regions (from San Diego to Los Angeles), it looks the same everywhere. The GPS unit does display railroads (at all zoom levels), but not streets.

Tried to install the '08 California Topo map. That one is even weirder. Golf courses and churches are gone. As  far as I can tell, when it is loaded, the GPS unit displays only three types of objects: lakes, wells and power lines.

I have eTrex 30 and BaseCamp 3.3.2. I got the catopo11 map installed on the PC. I can see it nicely inside BaseCamp (elevation contours, roads, street numbers, everything).

When I go through "map install" process, it creates a .img file in Garmin folder on the device, and a new map appears in the list of available maps. I enable that map and disable everything else. I set zoom levels to "auto", text sizes to "medium", detail to "most", shaded relief to "show if available" (or to "do not show", does not seem to matter).

When the device is in the map mode, I can see a few different terrain types (parks are gray, golf courses are yellow), it shows all churches, etc., but I can't see streets or elevation contours. It looks like this:



I tried poking around in settings, deleting & re-uploading, etc., with no effect.

Is my device incapable of showing streets, or am I missing something?