All I found for Western Europe was the unsatisfying land cover map I just downloaded called World Map East.
Looking for something for mountain / hiking use. Maybe I need to buy from Garmin?
Not from this site, but try http://www.openfietsmap.nl/ or http://www.opencyclemap.org/
And see this:
http://www.freizeitkarte-osm.de/en/index.html
http://openmaps.eu/
There could be better free maps for single countries or regions.
Not mainland Europe, and I haven't tried it, but this seems to get mentioned a lot as the best maps for the UK:
http://talkytoaster.com/ukmaps.htm
Freizeitkarte was exactly what I was looking for, thanks. Topo maps for the Alps. Urban for everywhere else.
You might be interested in South Tyrol too:
http://www.maptk.dnsalias.com/Maps/