I do re-project my "raster" maps using a complex process involving a free graphics manipulation program: imagemagick.
The vast majority of the maps I make are Garmin Custom Maps - and for some reason most of the maps I download (USGS topo, park maps available online) are in a different projection such that things are terribly askew with the Garmin Custom Maps. Fortunately, they have some guide marks on them (16 of them for the USGS topo maps) that show where the LAT/LON are supposed to be.
There is a manual process by which I find these hash marks and use imagemagick to force them into a proper grid. Imagemagick takes my measurements and shifts every pixel on the map according to a 5th order polynomial in order to minimize distortions across the entire map. After I use this process, I then put the shading in (which, for some reason, is provided in the proper projection). I wrote a script to simplify this process.
I'm sure there is an easier way with something like GRASS GIS, but my chosen method seemed the path of least resistance with what knowledge I already had.
The vast majority of the maps I make are Garmin Custom Maps - and for some reason most of the maps I download (USGS topo, park maps available online) are in a different projection such that things are terribly askew with the Garmin Custom Maps. Fortunately, they have some guide marks on them (16 of them for the USGS topo maps) that show where the LAT/LON are supposed to be.
There is a manual process by which I find these hash marks and use imagemagick to force them into a proper grid. Imagemagick takes my measurements and shifts every pixel on the map according to a 5th order polynomial in order to minimize distortions across the entire map. After I use this process, I then put the shading in (which, for some reason, is provided in the proper projection). I wrote a script to simplify this process.
I'm sure there is an easier way with something like GRASS GIS, but my chosen method seemed the path of least resistance with what knowledge I already had.